03 March 2006

guangzhuo

The trip to Guangzhou is a straightforward two hours by train from HK. I had heard much of Guangzhou and it's reputation so I expected to be seized upon by a multitude of touts, etc once I got out of the station. Just like Shenzen. But I had little harrassment there. That begins at nightfall when the hookers and pimps get to business. Every few metres, they are offers of 'boom, boom'. It gets really tiresome.

Then there are the pickpockets who work in pairs. I detected two attempts, and on one occasion I lost my rag and pointed agressively at him and yelled 'YOU WATCH IT SON!'. Not sure he understood the words but he certainly got the message. Besides the map in my back pocket would have been a poor reward. Another thing is the number of fake notes knocking about. I ended up with five 100 yuan notes which is bizzare given that these are the highest denominations I am aware of and even in my most stupid moments I wouldn't take five in one go. My conclusion is that the reception of my hotel opened by bag containing passport, etc and switched them for genuine notes.

I liked Shaiman Island though. It's where the British, French and all had their trading posts and it resembles that of a European city. Big, majesterial buildings. This was the area formerly known to Westerners as Canton. A lot of dough was made there. Opium of course. Nowadays it's more a museum piece for tourists and seemingly endless numbers of American couples wheeling around newly adopted Chinese children. The American consulate is on the island.

My main night out was to bar alley, which is more like out-of-business bar alley. I found a place where a Philipino act were singing. During their break, she came to talk pleasantries with me, name, country, blah, blah, blah. Customer relations, I suppose. Then when she returned to the stage, she announced before the first song ' Welcome to....(pause) from.....(pause).....I forgot'. The music wasn't much better.

Met some decent people in my dorm but to be truthful, I wanted to leave the city as I found it dirty (it is after all the alleged birthplace of the bird flu) and somewhat menacing. I was biten to shreds too by unknown insects. Besides it wasn't pleasant to see some of the things sold at the markets. For example, the number of tiger paws on sale is alarming.

I was happy to get on the night train.

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