hua hin

It was a very cheap, two hour, people carrier journey to Hua Hin. I was a little disturbed that all my assumptions about Thai women and western men were holding true. The other passengers were a Yank with a woman many years his junior and his Austrialian side kick who was also accompanied by a much younger woman. Both were in their sixities I reckon. I felt consoled only by the fact that the age gap between myself and Pattaravadee was not so marked and I wasn´t paying for her company either. They talked sh·t the whole way. They were irreverant, flippant and vulgar. I disliked them both and especially their conversations.

When we arrived at the bus station, both of us jumped on the back of a motorbike to take us to the hotel. Three people to a bike! So South East Asia! The hotel was nice as the room are perched on a pier jutting in to the sea with great views. Hua Hin is a lovely beach resort. Smooth beaches, warm water, nice atmosphere. Not like the red zones of Phunket or Pattanni which I have choosen to boycott. It is much more reserved place. Thankfully.

Soon I was being intoduced to Pattaravadees Mother and family. I figured it a little embarrassing as I was worried her family would get the wrong idea about where I stood vis-a-vis their daughter. I am a traveller. I don´t want anyone to misunderstand what is happening. But they were wonderfully kind to me. Although I must say I was startled by the poverty in which they live but also very impressed that Pattaravadee would show me her family home in the first place. That touched me.

We had intended on staying in Hua Hin for two days but we actually stayed six days. Pattaravadee had to fake an illness so as to get a sick note from a Doctor. This measure is necessary as it is the only way her employers (she has two jobs; an office dogs body during the day and a waitress in the evening) will tolerate her absense. She won´t be paid. The working conditions of an average Thai person are dreadful. Two days off a month, no sickness pay, no holiday pay and don´t even talk about fringe benefits. They don´t exist.

Another good thing about being in Hua Hin at that time was the Jazz Festival. A three day free event on the beach. Admittedly it was mostly Thai and Danish jazz performers (it was sponsored by Carlsberg) but it was orgainsed so well that every day was just great. Beer, excellent food, warmth, music. Just wonderful.

I will never forget Hua Hin.