18 July 2006

lake titicaca

The next two days would be spent on Lake Titicaca, visiting three of its islands. It took three hours to get to the first island; Uros. The unusual thing about this island is it is artificial. It is merely a floating mass of interwoven reeds. Every year they add to it so give it bouyancy and stability. There are a number of such floating islands on the lake and it said they were created by its people in a bid to escape the clutches of rival tribes many years ago.

That said it was a right expo in modern tourism. Boat after boat arrived with gringo´s who were given an open air lecture about the island and its people. Then the horde was let lose to buy handicrafts from the numerous vendors. Afterwards we were transported on a reed boat (not unlike a viking boat in shape and style) called a ´totora´ to another island to gaze upon the local folk once more. I found looking at the guinea pig enclosures a lot less intrusive. The little criter being a staple of the local diet snce Inca times.

So onto another boat for another three hour trip to Amantaní Island. Here an overnight homestay with a local family was arranged. The island is populated by Quechua speakers. This is the language of the Inca´s and I had a good old bash at it. It is populated by about 800 families. The idea behind the gringo visits is they obviously pay the tour company, who allocates a family, the family provide cooked meals and a bed. The gringo brings basic staple foodstuffs as a ´gift´. In the evening the family takes the gringo to the community hall to join others for some traditional dancing and music. All I said, I really enjoyed it. My host family were charming. I loved the simplicity of their life and obvious contentment they enjoy. A stark constrast in many ways to the overburdened materialism of the west. And the traditional dress was just lovely. I was given a puncho to wear and looked every part the Irish spud farmer!!

The next day, hungover, we made our way to the final island to be visited; Taquile. The island is known for their fine handwoven textile products, among the highest quality in Peru. We stayed there only a matter of hours but it was quite an interesting place to learn about the social order, the lifestyle and the history. I found it fastinating that the Spanards took exception to the type of clothing the people used to wear. So they introduced their own line of fashion. The lady´s wear the big frilly black shirts with colourful accessories and an elaborate hat. While the blokes wear what is effectively the clothing of a Spanish matador. Amazing to think that this dress code has survived so long.

I enjoyed my time on Lake Titicaca and its islands. Save for tourism, it is like going back in time. I ´m not sure whether I would be quite so romantic in my love of their lifestyle if I had to live under such circumstances for a prolonged period of time (it is a hard life after all) but I really felt an affinity for the simplicity of their lifestyle. The simple solutions are often the best solutions. Oh, and for the first time in my life I saw a shooting star. I made a wish too.

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