moscow part three

A lack of planning on my part meant that I had to give St Petersburg amiss. Pity really as the last time I was there, it was too brief and I was unwell. No matter though as the replacement was exceptionally good. My host family have a Dacha ( a country home) some 100km west of Moscow. In fact, it consists of three buildings; a sleeping house, a kitchen and best of all; a banya or sauna. So, the four of us headed off. Lads outing. Hurrah.

When we arrived, the first task was to shovel snow-free paths which the rib wasn't too pleased with. Then get a wood fire burning in each of the three houses. A spot of chopping frozen wood. Once these chores were carried out, we had to wait until the banya was up to temperature. I amused myself by dressing up as a Russian peasant with huge siberian boots. And no, I wasn't drinking. That would be foolish before the banya. Then I found a Soviet era officers cap and a military trenchcoat and demanded everyone's passport. It kept me entertained anyway. Once that excitement abated, I made a snowman which looked like the design of someone with serious mental problems. I loved him though. Then the banya was ready, simmering along at 90 degrees.

I was given a novelty hat with 'Leader of the Banya' written in Russian. I have to take their word for it! Probably said 'Gobsh*te'. A bed sheet hid my modesty and off I went. I never lasted more than 10 minutes. After each burn, cold water gets thrown on the body to my ever-loud shouts of 'Mother of God, Save me'. It's all about the temperature constrast. I got braver and soon I was diving in the snow, in the nip, after each session. The finale was gettting a good beating with birch branches by Anatoly. It's said to improve circulation and improve the bones with its aromatic properties. That would show that rib. I am ashamed to admit that I could only take the beating on the back and chickened out of getting beated on the front. It was incredibly hot. What's worse is that the rib got off lightly. In short, it was my first sauna and a truly unique experience with all that jumping around in the snow. Later we had a barbecue afterwards. Yes, that's right a BBQ in minus 15! Much drinking and chatting. Just wonderful.

I awoke at 7am and it was freezing. The fire had gone out during the night. I surprised myself by lighting a new one. Took a walk around the area, so pleasant with its thick snow covering. A local lake was frozen solid and I saw where someone had cut a hole. I had heard about this ages ago. Some Russian men jump into the hole on certain mornings to prove their strength. I'm happy to be a weakling. Sure enough the hole had a pathway that led up to someone's dacha.

We returned the following day. It was my last night so off beering again in central Moscow. Then some more dodgy dancing in a nightclub. I surprised myself by getting up early the next day. I just had to see Lenin. In fact I saw two, a dead one and an imitation one (got my photo taken with him, the other bloke would answer). Met a family from Austrailia who came UK originally. I got them drunk (probably) as I was drunk. The only downside of my last day was that the rib, knowing his time is short, has been joined by an ally in the form of a blocked right ear. I don't make it easy on myself, of course, with prodding and poking my fingers in it in irritation. Before I knew it I had said my goodbyes and sitting on the Trans-Siberian train thinking whether I would make it the 5 days, 106 hours all the way to Mongolia.

I miss Russia and its kind people, especially my Russian Family.