toyko part one

An easy flight to Toyko. Felt unusual to be using an airplane after all the train and bus journeys. A quick stopover in Seoul and then onto Toyko. My first concern was to validate my Japan Rail Pass which was very straightforward and reserve a ticket to central Toyko. Simple.

I used an website called 'Hospitality Club' to see if anyone could put me up for the first two nights. I sent three requests and a lady called Yuriko obliged. The other two didn't bother to reply. This was a bit of a relief as I landed in Japan with the understanding that it would probably be the most challenging country I would visit on my little tour. She, and her flatmates, live in a nice apartment north of Toyko so the arrangement was to meet her at her local station. Easy. Such an efficient transport network.

Met her and then her flatmates. One a Japanese guy and the other a guy from Quebec. There was another guest too; a chap from Belguim. All nice people. I dropped off my stuff, had something to eat and off I went into the centre. I kept it simple as Tokyo is one crazy place and as I was soon to understand, it's easy to get lost. It really is an overwhelming experience on the senses. Maybe it was more acute for me as Mongolia was quite tranquil. But in Toyko, the traffic roars, the traffic lights beep incessantly, the trains play electronic tunes for the opening and closing of doors, vendors shout out their services, bicycles whizz past, the tempting smell of food is everywhere, audio advertising recordings belch down from above, lights, neon lights, flashing. Oh dear, it's overload.

Add into the mix, the endless number of people. A defining image of my time is Toyko was standing at a pedastrian crossing waiting for the green man light. The crossing itself was some 20 metres in width and similar dimensions pavement to pavement. When the green man appeared both sides of people converge in the middle and cross. But just before that moment I was shunned to see such a wall of people, 10 deep, 20 metres wide approaching. I mean, hundreds and hundreds of people. Something else.

I returned to the flat and we all went out and got drunk (except Yuriko who stayed sober). It was a good night but I suffered for it the next day. I ventured out into the melee to get a camera. A rather nice one, I may add. I saw a couple of sights but felt it quite disorientating getting around. Firstly, the road signs are rarely in roman characters and the same for the building names. The train stations are so huge they could be regarded as towns. The underground network of tunnels is confusing and just make one error with an exit and it will cost you time and sweat to undo. The wind was being taken out of my sail. I wasn't enjoying it very much. It required too much concentration, effort and problem solving skills to be considered enjoyable.

The intention was to leave for Osaka the next day but I flapped about too much and left it too late. The time wastage again was down to trying to find a restaurant, a museum, a sight and failing miserably. Or getting lost in the subterrean world of Toyko station. I was beginning to get frustrated. I didn't want to bother Yuriko again by staying for a third night so I sought out accommodation and by chance found something I am close to in love with. The traditional Japanese Inn or Ryokan. It's cheap accommodation for Japan, 30 euro, and you get your own room, tea making facilities, TV, a Yukata (for lounging) and it was all authentic Japanese style. I went out that evening to find an Irish pub but got seriously lost. The trouble being that the Ryokan shuts its door at 1am and I had 1 hour to rescue myself. I asked a couple of people for directions ( I had forgotten my map!) but no one knew. I remember asking a girl, twenty-ish, and she literally ran away from me in terror! Big bad Western Gorilla. It was hilarious. Then I figured the best way of solving the problem was to find the local train station as I knew my way from there. Two Japanese guys helped, altered their course and brought me to the front door. Very kind.

The next day was more of the same, getting lost. Struggling to find restuarants, struggling to be understood, struggling to order food, everything. That evening I ensured I got the bullet train (truly marvellous machines) to Osaka. Half-way in to the journey, I thought, f*ck it I'll get off at Kyoto instead. You see, I hadn't booked a hostel for Osaka so I was free to change my mind.