10 January 2006

trans-siberian express day five

Up at 5.30am. Another beautiful day outside the glass, basked in sunshine. Snow everywhere, of course. I was chuffed to see that I was passing lake Baikal. Its colour is of the richest blue. It's the deepest lake in the world. Holds one-fifth of all the worlds fresh water. Quite amazing. I was envious of the people who own dacha's by its shore. I sat happily with my head resting on my hands and stared. For hours.

I thought this morning I would treat myself to a cooked breakfast. Getting bored of cheese sandwiches now. Ordered fried eggs. Again, it was expensive. My waiter hasn't changed his clothes since the journey began in Moscow either! That really enhances my appetite. I ordered the bill. This is where I believe the pencil comes into play. The prices went up overnight. Yesterday a coffee was 45 roubles, today it's 65. I know inflation is a problem in Russia but this is really too much. The margin of error in the addition of the items I ordered is also increasing. Cheeky b*stard! Nonetheless, I paid. I try to convey my understanding of his ruse through facial expressions. He doesn't mind, of course, as long as he pulls it off.

Got to the border with Mongolia. Here I worried. The visa registration thing and also, whether customs would give me sh*t as I hadn't made a declaration on entry to the country. I wasn't aware I had to! The stop was 4 hours and 40 minutes. 2 hours is needed to change the wheels of the train. Russia uses a different track guage to most other countries. Anyway, I filled out my customs exit declaration. He pointedly asked me whether I had any guns or narcotics. Of course, 'say hello to my little friend' and while your at it, have a toke of my joint.

They took my passport afterwards. Then I waited some 4 hours. All the time thinking whether they would note my registration omission and fine me. A lady, garbed in an initimating uniform, came to my cabin and asked me to confirm my name. I was ordered out of the cabin while a spritely young lady hopped around searching it. The passport lady, kind of sternly, passed me my passport and said good luck. The manner in which she said it reminded me of the scene from 'The Great Escape' when Richard Attenborough and the Scottish bloke try to board the bus! You know, the German checks their papers, allows them to proceed and then says 'Good Luck' and the Scottish bloke says 'Thank You'. They are rumbled. I figured it best to nod rather than reveal my crime. I'm sure there was a bunch of secret service agents ready to pounch if I send the wrong thing.

Weird to think my journey is almost over.

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