moscow part one

Overnight train from Helsinki to Moscow. 94 euro but I consider it to be cheap for a 16 hour journey. I figured it would be uneventful. I'm sorry to admit that I had allowed myself to be influenced by the numerous horror stories about travelling in Russia. As a result I expected to be diligently guarding my things at all times. This is ridiculous as I have been to Russia before and it was wonderful. Why did I listen to these morons? Are there not chancers in every country? Anyway, I soon forgot the paranoia and joined a Finnish and Russian bloke for beers in the buffet carriage. Cheap beer too. Later the Finnish bloke who was travelling to Moscow to join his missus and two kids (he's 21!) asked whether it would be okay to invite a 'beautiful lady' to our table. For a second I thought he was pimping.

Anyway, he asked, she agreed, she would be with us in 5 minutes. I went off to the bog and I saw this girl en route. I was struck by the majesty of her legs and her dazzling eyes. On returing to the table, she was there. A Moscovite. Perfect English. Karina. Being a right d*ck, I had a little joke with her about whether she was really Anna Karina. Fortunately she didn't appear to recognise that I'm a right d*ck. I asked her what she does. I thought she said 'belly dancer'. You've have no belly, love! In fact, she meant ballet dancer. That explains the wonderous legs then. I guessed she is 21 but in fact, after a silly little game, she was 31. No joke. She came back to our cabin. This is astonishing, I think, that a beautiful girl would freely come to a cabin with three blokes. So, have that you Russia Hysteria merchants!

I am staying with a Russian family who are long standing friends of my family. For whatever reason I didn't see Misha on disembarking or was I paying attention? After a hour we met, I made an anxious phonecall to his Mother, Galina. The funny thing was he asked one of the train ladies about me and she said 'oh yes, he was with two other guys and they were all very drunk last night'. I was drunk on love!

Minus 15. Cool.

It was fantastic to be back in Moscow. I kind of regard it as a spiritual home. The family; Galina, Anatoly, Mish, Dema are truly wonderful hosts. Galina is a great cook too! Can't stop feeding me, as if I need a bigger belly, eh! Anatoly has limited English as opposed to my non-existent Russian but his kindness to me is exceptional. Besides when myself and Anatoly start knocking back the vodka, we have a common language! Soon after arrival we went off to collect some water from the natural spring nearby. It's located in an area that was used as a site for one of the Winter Olympic games. All snowy and mountainous. A few kids were slidding down a hill on anything they could get their hands on. One kid thrilled me, he was about seven or so, and he was an extremely happy little child. Why? Because he had his very own plastic bag to slide down the hill on. Oh, the joy. Misha asked a girl whether I could borrow her rather more refined big plastic saucer. She obliged. I was reminded of the joy of youth as I flew down the hill coming to a stop by falling over. The rib wasn't happy.

We went drinking that evening, myself and Misha. Dema joined us later and on my request, they gave a hearty rendition of the Russian anthem as we headed off to a nightclub. On the way, I bought a firework and set it off! Why? I dunno. As we three staggered down the road, singing with linked arms, one tumbled (probably me) and the whole lot of us ended up sprawled all over the icey Road, laughing. The nightclub, at first, wouldn't allow us in but on hearing I was a foreigner we were admitted. Even better, we were given the best seat in the joint! Another good night ensued. On leaving I seen some poor bloke in bits from drinking sitting outside. I feared he would die of the cold. I just had to insist we take him home, we did. Festive spirit.

I awoke next day late. It was dark. Decided on a trip to the spring. Seen a old bloke wading in the stream up to his knees. I asked him what he was doing but he didn't understand me. When he got out, he came over to me and pointed at his back. Oh, it's medicinal eh! As soon as he left I was right in there doing battle with the rib. Man, it was cold. I was determined to walk twelve feet in one direction and return. It stung. Hell, it stung. Got out and returned with more spring water to the Family. Much to Galina's consternation, I returned to the spring for another assault on the rib. On my journey back to the apartment I found great joy in allowing myself to freefall into the snow and make shapes with my arms and legs. And it wasn't just once either.

helsinki part two

As usual I am playing catch up with this blog. Number one, I'm lazy. Number two, I'm busy doing stuff; drinking mainly. Number three, access to the internet and corresponding cost in Finland is ridiculous. Don't even get me talking of the cost of beer! So, forgive the disjoint between part one and part two of the Helsinki story. Part one was needed to say Happy Christmas.

When planning this world trip thing I wanted freedom to change plans, go places unexpectedly, not go places orginally planned. Helsinki falls under the last one. The crossing from Tallinn was quick at 1 hour 40 minutes. Relatively cheap too at 12 euro. I won't bore you with how I acquired them. James, the English bloke, joined me. My greatest problem was heaving my backsack. I was terribly concerned that the rib would finally give way. No joke, I was worried. Carrying a rucksack upsets your centre of gravity and tends to jolt the body on uneven surfaces. Each jolt seemed to be sniggering at me in anticipation of a coming snap, crackle and pop. I made it, but in distress.

The Hostel was easy to find, high quality and voted best in FInland. Not a bad start. Couple of oddballs hanging out there. Some old bloke, a bit creepy, cooked up a terrible aromatic storm everytime he got near the kitchen. It was truly awful. The stink penetrated my bones. The rib protested by teasing me! Also, it seemed half of China was there too. They can be a timid lot. Literally following each other around to avoid speaking to the non-Chinese. I observed one such waltz in the kitchen, four of them clung to one another. It began at the table, quick sidestep to the fridge, a whirl to the cooker. Quite amazing. Maybe they're shy! Or maybe they were the culprits who kept nicking my bread.

Drinking there is prohibitively expensive. Might be an idea for me to take up residence. I could enhance the working life of my liver! Now buying a beer is a gut wrenching experience when you're informed of the cost. But just try and get a bottle of spirit. I went on a 2 hour 'search and acquire' mission in central Helsinki for a bottle of vodka. Figured everything would be closed on Christmas Day. I am deeply ashamed, as an Irishman, that all I came back with was a newspaper. For the crossword!!

Went clubbing on two occasions at the same place. It has an original name; 'The Club'. They were pretty good nights. The first evening was quite funny in that I woke up in South Helsinki desperately trying to remember the name of the girl whose flat it was. She's blonde. Oh, the things I do! It was an enjoyable time there though. Nice to have snow at Christmas, watch 12 episodes of the Fast Show on Christmas day (no kidding) and be unconcerned by a total lack of organised sightseeing. Just breezed along.

Decided to head straight to Moscow rather than stop off at St Petersburg.

helsinki part one

Happy Christmas to one and all from Helsinki. However, I celebrated yesterday in accordance with Finnish custom. But with a nod to home, I cooked a roast. Roast chicken legs, roast spuds, smash and veg. My current travelling companion benefited greatly although he did the dishes. Fortunately the hostel is well equipped for ambitious culinary adventures. There was snow too.

It was all good.