A journey through Europe, the Baltic states, Russia, Mongolia, Japan, China, South East Asia, South America and back again to South East Asia in about eighteen months.
07 January 2006
trans-siberian express day two
Up at 8am. I ventured out to see whether there had been a change to the toilet situation. There had. Tap fixed and second bog operative. I began to experiment with ways of washing myself in a confined toilet, while the train rocked and the chill was minus 20. Limited success. I spent the morning goofing out the window. Watching. I enjoyed it. The snow covered trees, the passing scenery and its ruggedness. There was traffic on the other line but mainly freight. This is how I spent the day light hours. By 3pm, it would be dark.
Still worried about whether I would be able to convert the dollars, I procastinated in finding out. I figured that the more time I spend in limbo, the better it would be when faced with a 'niet' as I waved my dollar around. I ate some salami. At 9pm, I thought enough is enough. I went to the dining carriage and attempted to communicate with the waiter. A gruesome looking fellow. Yes, they could change the dollars. Relief. At a sh*t rate, no matter. There were only 3 other diners. The menu was limited, the prices were in pencil, and at the bottom it was dated, in print, 1951. Hardly Michelin star. I could perfectly appreciate that this menu was created in 1951 as some of the items were 'Soviet' this and 'Soviet' that! My first meal was 8 euro, one course and a cup of tea. Hardly cheap, just made me think of that pencil.....
Nonetheless, I was starting to get into it. The goofing out the window, the little pecularities and so on. I used the timetable afixed to the wall of my carriage to figure when the train would stop and for how long. I made a point of jumping out at these intervals to stretch my legs and to acquire bread, etc. There was usually some old woman selling there wares. In freezing conditions. Minus 20 plus. These old Russian woman are as hard as nails.
I returned to my cabin and soon the melody of the train on the tracks had me asleep.
Well here goes thousands of miles sitting on a train. Please don't misunderstand me, this was something I wanted to do. I know it'll be a challenge but one I will wrestle with and overcome. Countless miles, countless time zones. Misha acquired a first class ticket for me. When I embarked the carriage supervisor ( a pretty thing) informed him food wasn't included. This, despite, the travel agent having said food was part of the deal. But the good thing was that I had the cabin all to myself. This was good as I feared being holed up with some weirdo, or someone who snored, or someone who incessantly farted. My only fear was on the food front. I had few roubles, only dollars. Misha said they would change it and not wishing to lack faith in him, I just lacked faith in whether these people would actually change the dollars to roubles. I had some salami, cheese, and water but that was it. I would wait before putting the assertion to the test.
The train set off . I went to check the facilities. One toilet in operation, the other not. When I tried to use the wash hand basin, the god damn tap head fell off. No sign of the shower hose mentioned on websites. Now, don't get me wrong, I do not have unrealistic expectations but this was a kick in the head. I went off to the dining carriage, not exactly the ritz, more like a greasy spoon in Peckham. Had a beer and returned to the cabin.
I was worried about the financial situation. About the fact that no one spoke English. About whether I would cope with 5 days of just talking to myself. There were two other people in the first class carriage. Russians. The carriage staff, a woman and a man, seemed surly. The smoking area is the section of the carriage that joins to the next and it had little snow flurries. My God, to think of those train spotters types who probably dream of such a journey and then to be confronted with this! Maybe they have special carriages laid on.
A lack of planning on my part meant that I had to give St Petersburg amiss. Pity really as the last time I was there, it was too brief and I was unwell. No matter though as the replacement was exceptionally good. My host family have a Dacha ( a country home) some 100km west of Moscow. In fact, it consists of three buildings; a sleeping house, a kitchen and best of all; a banya or sauna. So, the four of us headed off. Lads outing. Hurrah.
When we arrived, the first task was to shovel snow-free paths which the rib wasn't too pleased with. Then get a wood fire burning in each of the three houses. A spot of chopping frozen wood. Once these chores were carried out, we had to wait until the banya was up to temperature. I amused myself by dressing up as a Russian peasant with huge siberian boots. And no, I wasn't drinking. That would be foolish before the banya. Then I found a Soviet era officers cap and a military trenchcoat and demanded everyone's passport. It kept me entertained anyway. Once that excitement abated, I made a snowman which looked like the design of someone with serious mental problems. I loved him though. Then the banya was ready, simmering along at 90 degrees.
I was given a novelty hat with 'Leader of the Banya' written in Russian. I have to take their word for it! Probably said 'Gobsh*te'. A bed sheet hid my modesty and off I went. I never lasted more than 10 minutes. After each burn, cold water gets thrown on the body to my ever-loud shouts of 'Mother of God, Save me'. It's all about the temperature constrast. I got braver and soon I was diving in the snow, in the nip, after each session. The finale was gettting a good beating with birch branches by Anatoly. It's said to improve circulation and improve the bones with its aromatic properties. That would show that rib. I am ashamed to admit that I could only take the beating on the back and chickened out of getting beated on the front. It was incredibly hot. What's worse is that the rib got off lightly. In short, it was my first sauna and a truly unique experience with all that jumping around in the snow. Later we had a barbecue afterwards. Yes, that's right a BBQ in minus 15! Much drinking and chatting. Just wonderful.
I awoke at 7am and it was freezing. The fire had gone out during the night. I surprised myself by lighting a new one. Took a walk around the area, so pleasant with its thick snow covering. A local lake was frozen solid and I saw where someone had cut a hole. I had heard about this ages ago. Some Russian men jump into the hole on certain mornings to prove their strength. I'm happy to be a weakling. Sure enough the hole had a pathway that led up to someone's dacha.
We returned the following day. It was my last night so off beering again in central Moscow. Then some more dodgy dancing in a nightclub. I surprised myself by getting up early the next day. I just had to see Lenin. In fact I saw two, a dead one and an imitation one (got my photo taken with him, the other bloke would answer). Met a family from Austrailia who came UK originally. I got them drunk (probably) as I was drunk. The only downside of my last day was that the rib, knowing his time is short, has been joined by an ally in the form of a blocked right ear. I don't make it easy on myself, of course, with prodding and poking my fingers in it in irritation. Before I knew it I had said my goodbyes and sitting on the Trans-Siberian train thinking whether I would make it the 5 days, 106 hours all the way to Mongolia.
I miss Russia and its kind people, especially my Russian Family.
Had a most fanastic night. Got so drunk that I was unable to walk the 10 minute journey back to my ever so kind hosts. Just heard about this aspect of my night a moment ago. What a sap! We got a taxi.
It was wonderful to see the Moscovites celebrate the coming of 2006. Not unlike the Irish really. Possibly more civilised. Although no one would have paid attention if Bertie Aherne addressed the nation at midnight. In fact, some hooligan would have thrown a beer glass at the TV. The Russians listened respectfully to Putin. Maybe it's deserved, Russia has improved greatly since my last visit. The place itself wasn't overbooked and not crowded with sweaty punters eagerly making their way to the bar for the customary 30 minute wait to get a beer. Everyone was happy.
The venue was a local bar. A whole schedule of things were arranged. Cabaret, latino band, magician, cheeky girl style ensemble. Needless to say I fell in love on 5 occasions. The comperes assistant, the cheeky girl, the girl sitting opposite to me and two girls on the dance floor. I mentioned to Misha that I would readily marry the cheeky girl without even knowing her name. Such was my infatuation. Shame I can't remember a lot of it. We returned to the home at 7.30am.
Anyhow, I wish all my readers a healthy and happy new year.
