bangkok part one

The bus trip to Sin City was easy enough but trying to make my way from the east bus station to the hotel was a bit of a bother. No one seemed to understand me. I found a tourist kiosk and asked them to write the hotel name (I had choosen from the Lonely Planet) in Thai. They were most determined to direct me elsewhere. I stood my ground and eventually found a taxi driver to take me to Hotel Miami. I was intrigued by this place as it was a R&R hotel during the Vietnam War for American GI`s. It would be an interesting experience to dwell where these guys had spent a couple of weeks before going back to the war and the very real possibility of death! That said, it was a proper sh·thole. Ah well.

On my first night I ventured out to the local night spot called ´Soi Cowboy´. The theme is beer and prostitutes. I didn´t like it very much but then I found an Irish pub (soi distant) where I figured I would be free of hassle. I was. Then two Irish blokes wandered in. We spoke, drank and then they invited me to one of Bangkoks celebrated shows; the Ping Pong Show. Now the last time I was in Bangkok I wanted to see this depravity just for the sake of it but circumstances prevailed against me. Now I had a chance so I took it. I would never enter such an establishment on my own. I cannot and will not elborate on what happens there, on the stage. All I will say is that I spent the whole time clasping my forehead and shouting out in disbelief ´Jesus Christ´. So many objects, all for entertainment, terrible. No more to be said. A sad vista.

I must confess I hated Bangkok at first. It´s dirty, polluted, smelly, noisy and without any recognisable order. Walking around is a peril. Mopeds use the pavement, the pavements are in bits, there is no where to walk. I found solace only on the skytrain ( a rather limited inner city train network that is elevated some ten metres above the ground). It wasn´t long before I wanted to leave this God forsaken place. It felt like hell.

But I found salvation and also a love for Bangkok pretty soon. I solved my transport issue by using motorcycle taxi´s which are really a form of extreme sport. Weaving through traffic at speed, all the time convinced of ones imminent death but loving it. Then there is the food. Cheap and wonderful. Then there is the ease of speaking no Thai yet getting by without any real discomfort. Then there is a variety of things to do. The many bars ( I found six Irish pubs by chance). And then there is the Thai people, they are real charmers, broad smiles, always eager to help, for a buck of course but in a very nice way. One cannot help but like them.

After five nights in the war era hotel (opps, it is a war era now, isn´t it?), I moved to a very plush but competively priced hotel which completely changed the complexion of my experience of Bangkok. Also, while nightclubbing I met a nice Thai girl. How typical! She became my girlfriend of sorts. At first I was reluctant as I observed many, many western men in toe with a Thai girl. The charateristics of the relationship could be surmised as differences in age (very significant) , looks (profoundly significant), beer gut (on one party), money (held by one party), hair loss (of the white bloke). But I like her. Her name is Pattaravadee. She´s 25.

It was very nice to have three of my friends from Hong Kong (in two trips) come over to Bangkok too. Nice restaurants, clever things to do, good company. It was wonderful. I was really starting to love Bangkok. Yes, it is associated very much with the sex trade but it is so much more than that. It is a city of life, energy, diversity, terrible inequility, injustice, corruption but that is what makes it so fastinating.

Before long I found myself agreeing to visit Pattaravadees family in the coastal resort of Hua Hin. I thought why not, afterall I have made it clear I will leave Thailand shortly and continue my travels. But it would be an adventure too. Entering into the world of a real Thai person and her family. It would be a regret, I think, if I didn´t accept.